Proof that there are high mountain peaks in Ecuador. Taken at the end of January 2016.
We knew from our last trip, Ecuador’s Andes have incredibly high, jagged peaks with snow on top, even at the equator. (I include a photo to prove it.) However, in the rainy season one would never know this. We crossed and re-crossed the mountains and never saw those peaks.
We managed to get through Guayaquil with only one wrong turn costing an hour of backed up traffic before we could get turned around in the right direction. Guayaquil is Ecuador’s largest and busiest port city and the unfortunate scene of increasing cartel activity. Our state department warns tourists to avoid all border areas, as cartels from the surrounding countries are expanding their nefarious businesses into Ecuador. If only the demand for drugs would dry up, the world would be a safer place.
The road over the pass to Cuenca, our next stop, is high and winding. From sea level in Guayaquil the road climbs to 11,155 feet before descending to Cuenca’s 8,200 feet. In 2017 excessive rains caused a huge mudslide, burying the highway for several miles. The road was completely closed for a few years and is yet only partially open. It’s still one lane in places. The damage is massive. We had a 3 hour wait, with traffic backed up for miles in both directions.
Nearing the pass I stopped to take a photo of the road up.
The man who owned the property, came out to see what we were doing near his horse…then offered to take us on a tour of his farm.
He raises pigs, chickens and guinea pigs (called cuy) for sale to local eateries. Cuy are a favorite staple of several S. American countries. There’s a rabbit snuggled in with the guinea pigs.
View near the top of the pass where we waited for 3 hours.
The road on the east side of the pass winds through the scenic El Cajas Nat. Park. With the traffic and the iffy weather, we didn’t stop but once to take a quick look at the mountain flora.
The carpet of small alpine plants is very diverse.
I include only a small number of the many flowers and fungi.
One intriguing flower reminds me of the ancient Protea flowers of Australia.
The signs are there, but this trip we saw no wildlife on the hustle through the park.
Last time we did see a wild llama.
True to our style, we made no reservations in Cuenca so drove to the little hostel, Villa del Rosario, where we stayed years ago. Luckily it was still there with the same proprietors and a room for us. Lovely people and the price which includes breakfast is beyond reasonable. It’s a short walk from there to the main plaza area, several food markets (mercados) as well as the swollen Tomebamba River with its riverside trail.
The swollen Tomebamba River cuts through Cuenca.
Graffiti along the river walk.
Black cat graffiti and stone construction materials.
Wedding photographer uses the old stone bridge abutment as his backdrop.
Flower market near the main plaza.
Charming sales ladies with greens laid out on display.
Busker gettin’ by and stayin’ alive.
Plaza denizens.
Cuenca is a mecca for ex-pats from all over the world. The climate is mild, amenities available, and prices are reasonable. I like to find the local flavor, so go where there aren’t a lot of gringos. There are several markets in Cuenca. The one we chose for lunch was the 9th of October Mercado. Ecuador celebrates the Independence of Guayaquil, a national holiday, on October 9 to commemorate Ecuador’s liberation from Spanish rule in 1822. Many streets are named for famous dates and this market is named for its street.
The market exterior. This type of market is found all over S. America. One can always find good, locally grown food at these places from the growers themselves.
View of the interior. Three floors are needed for the variety of goods sold.
All sorts of meat are sold on the ground floor. Notice the pan of chicken feet.
Next floor is for fruits and vegetables.
Top floor is where people go to eat or get take-out.
Rows of vendors sell roast pork. It’s delicious. These pigs are not raised in factory farms. Apologies to my vegetarian friends.
In small surrounding mountain towns live many indigenous groups. The women, wearing colorful clothing, come into the big city to buy and sell their wares.
Outside on the plaza more vendors are busy…or distracted.
Selfies are as universal as cellphones.
Some ladies have all the fun.
This fellow was being given a razor shave, apparently asked for, but not enjoyed.
These same mannequins are found in many shops. Bargains galore!
Heading south to visit Vilcabamba, a small touristy town, we passed Saraguro at about lunch time. There was a big Sunday market in full progress. This town is not on the tourist trail. Most inhabitants and vendors were indigenous. We didn’t see another pale face anywhere. The women of each group in Ecuador wear distinctive hats. Notice the ones on these ladies of Saraguro.
The market in full swing. Threatening clouds don’t dampen spirits here.
But here, as everywhere in Ecuador, the generation gap is obvious.
The young people don’t dress in their parents’ style.
Stylish lady taking a break on Saraguro’s main plaza.
Don’t follow your GPS to the Rumi Wilco Ecolodge. The road and bridge washed out several years ago, but GPS still wants us to go that way. (It would be much shorter.) The lodge is 1K from Vilcabamba if you’re walking, but a much farther drive if not. The ecolodge was started in 1991 by owners Orlando and Alicia Falco from Argentina. They agreed with the neighbors to join their properties to form a nature reserve of about 100 acres along the Chamba River. Several marked hiking trails are available for guests who want to look for unusual plants, birds and wildlife. The couple have built several guest cabins plus their main house. Their grown children help with running the enterprise. One son loaded our luggage in a wheelbarrow and pushed it the half kilometer to our cabin. While this lodge is lovely, it is definitely not wheelchair accessible.
Cabin at Rumi Wilco ecolodge.
Comfortable cabin interior. The hot water shower and toilet are underneath.
Trail along the Chamba River.
Vine plant flower front…
…and back
Clearwing butterfly.
A huge Hawaiian lily. I’m glad I took the picture, because on the way back we saw a young couple pick it.
Wildlife viewing from our balcony.
…and more wildlife. There are some whopper spiders in Ecuador.
Groove-billed Ani
Yellow-tailed Oriole
Pale-legged Hornero
AND, an Andean Motmot
Leaving Rumi Wilco for the drive back to Quito, we see some farmers still burn their fields. Fortunately, the practice doesn’t seem as widespread as it once was.
Adios, until the last and final sprint back to Quito and home.