Leaving Juan Solito we drove the entire day. It took us nearly 6 hours to Yopal: The guys at the reserve say they make the drive in 3…can’t imagine how they do that, although we did stop at some of the water holes on the way out to once again marvel at the variety of bird life. 

 

 Gave up the grueling drive at the cute little town of Monterrey. With a population of about 15,000, it’s not even mentioned in Lonely Planet. We found a tidy hotel featuring cabins with air conditioning for $20. The proprietor said we were his first American guests ever.

At breakfast the next morning the gentleman at the next table, Manuel, asked us to join him. He is the director of the community radio station and after breakfast showed us his station. Everywhere we went people were so happy to see us and tout their small towns. If the driving hadn’t been so awful we’d recommend Colombia heartily as a DIY destination. 

From Monterrey to Villavicencio is a lovely, easy drive. From there through the mountains to Bogatá is another nightmare. They are working on a number of tunnels to ease the two-lane traffic, but it may be another few years before construction is completed. Reached Bogatá just at rush hour. Imaging a city bigger than Denver with no major highway running through. A total traffic zoo. With only a few wrong turns, somehow Craig managed to navigate us out of the capital city to another small town, El Rosal, with only one hotel. In the highlands no air conditioning is required, nights are quite chilly. Our goal was the small, lovely little town of San Francisco and the Jardín Encantado, the Enchanted Garden. A local woman has discovered a way to share her wonderful hummingbird haven with tourists and make a living for herself. She charges a modest entry fee. 27 species have been recorded there (still only a fraction of Colombia’s hummer numbers).  It was overcast and drizzling, but still the hummingbird viewing was impressive.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Afterwards we had a substantial trout lunch, wandered around town a bit and left for the next destination.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Near Mariquita we spotted a resort that looked way too pricey for us, but decided to check anyway. They quoted a price we decided was too high. As we were leaving they decided to lower it by a third “just for us”. We were the only guests and nothing worked quite as advertised. The spa bathtub I was so looking forward to had no hot water. It had been so cloudy and rainy the solar hot water heater gave up. So more cold showers. Internet wasn’t working either. Ah well, watching the birds and butterflies off our balcony was delightful. Maraquita, though sizable isn’t much of a town, not even one laundry.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From Maraquita to Manizales the road winds through yet more mountains. On this Sunday the truckers were taking a break so the drive was actually pleasant! Skies were overcast with occasional spitting drizzle but that didn’t discourage bicyclists from grinding up unbelievably long, steep grades. Colombia has an annual bike race advertised as the longest climb in the world. I believe it.  Unfortunately, because of the constant low clouds, we never did see the spectacular Andes scenery. Snow-capped peaks close to the equator are such an unbelievable sight. We know because we saw pictures.

Manizales is an unexpectedly huge town with a magnificent cathedral. The city is built along a knife-edged ridge, dropping precipitously from both sides of the main road to barrios stretching for miles up and down the steep hillsides. Our hotel was out of town and once again we hired a taxi to show us the way. It’s the best way to get around large cities. Cheap and efficient.

The Mirador Finca Morrogacho, where we stayed, is owned by an Iranian/Canadian, Majid, who fled Iran in the 80’s. A delightful man with a gorgeous property. Had planned a trip to a local reserve but woke to fog and rain. Spent the day on the property birding, reading and relaxing. Definitely, the rainy season started early this year. (2019)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From there to the sleepy ancient city of Santa Fe de Antioquia. Similar to Villa de Leyva in colonial style, it’s not quite as big a tourist draw. Founded in 1541 as the capital city of the area, it lost its status when the capital moved to Medellín in 1826. It’s a very pretty little town in a lovely setting.

Now I have a confession to make. Somewhere before Bogatá I put a new SD card on my camera body with the wider-angle lens  When that 16GB card was used up the day before leaving Cartagena for home, I put it with the other exposed cards without backing up on a hard drive. I put all the cards and the excess cash I had brought along for emergencies in a little red bag in the outer pocket of our carry-on backpack. Tourist alert…never do this! Then, in the Panama City airport, I flashed about some cash then replaced the red bag in the outer pocket. Duh and double duh. Excess stupidity! My only excuse is I was so tired I wasn’t thinking. The reason I mention this at all is to remind travelers to always be aware and to explain why I have almost no pictures of towns, churches, and landscapes since Bogatá. So not a single picture of the lovely little colonial town survives. I cribbed a couple off the internet so you could see how cute the town is. Next little overnight stop, Mutatá with its ladies washing laundry in a polluted river, its little church with the wall mural of Jesus carrying his cross wearing a peasant shirt and blue jeans, and a horse and cart in a ‘no parking’ zone…all will remain my memories I can’t share with you.

However, that wasn’t the end of the trip, we still have a few more days to go, next stop…

Outside Neccolí is a lovely inn right on the beach of the Gulfo de Urabá where we finally went swimming in the warm Caribbean water. Our planned birding tour was rained out so we took our own tour around town.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next day we made our own self-guided safari toward a huge inland lake, Ciénaga de Marimonda. We never did find the lake, not for lack of trying, but here’s what we did find.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After Neccoli we scooted back to Cartagena along the coast, turned in the car, spent a day showing Craig the old fortress, and then headed home.  We were ready to relax in our own bed.