I chose Colombia for our winter escape because the country has more species of birds than any other in the world. It also has a diversity of climate and altitude unmatched by any but a few other countries. I thought it would be similar to Ecuador (which we toured a few years ago), and physically it is, although much larger. It’s the 26^th largest country in the world! We made hardly a dent in four weeks.

It boasts hot steamy jungle, sere deserts and very tall, steep mountains as the Andes dwindle from the heights of the south to sea level in the north. Mid-altitude climate is mild all year. It has a long Pacific coastline that is relatively undeveloped, and a Caribbean coastline that is more populated. Colombia has only two seasons, wet and dry.

I will tell you now; Colombia is not ready for do-it-yourself travel. Because of the FARC initiated guerilla war starting in the 1960’s and ending in 2017 (there are still a few dangerous pockets), the country hasn’t had a chance to catch up to the more tourist friendly countries in the region, like Peru and Ecuador. Not that they aren’t trying…they are; but infrastructure improvements are still in the beginning stages. Which means in tourist terms: the roads and traffic congestion are horrific. Google maps will lead you on non-existent routes. Give them at least 5 years and they’ll be ready for do-it-yourselfers.

Birding tours are available and recommended at present. Lodges catering to international clientele are lovely and found in out-of-the-way locations surrounded by wilderness. That being said, there is too much pressure on wildlife from overpopulation, logging, mining, grazing, oil production, and agriculture. Wildlife trafficking is also a huge problem.

Another raging problem for Colombia, (also Peru and Brazil), is what to do with all the current Venezuelan refugees. Budgets and options are limited. Tent camps and begging refugees are sad sights.

Despite the handicaps, Colombians are making a valiant effort to attract tourists. It’s a beautiful country with gentle, lovely people (until they get behind a steering wheel).

Spending two weeks in Cartagena going to a Spanish school before renting a car and heading out, was a gentle introduction to the country. Cartagena avoided the recent death of tourism because it’s a favorite stop on the Caribbean cruise ship circuit. Its historic attractions and safety, have kept it bursting with tourists. The city itself has close to a million inhabitants, but the beautifully preserved historic Old Town (a UNESCO world heritage site) and the upscale Bocagrande sections are what draw visitors.

Map of the Old Town area, a small part of a city of almost a million people.

Founded in 1533, Cartagena de Indias became the main port in the Caribbean for Spanish mischief in the New World. Surrounded by thirteen kilometers of Las Murallas (walls), the original settlers tried to defend themselves from foreign invaders and pirates.

They augmented their defenses with several forts, but the greatest fortress ever built by the Spaniards is El Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas which sits on a knoll on the other side of a canal from the old city. Construction began in 1657 to enlarge the small fort built in 1630. It was never taken although many attempts were made; the most formidable in 1741 by a huge British fleet (186 ships manned by 25,000 soldiers) which outnumbered a ragtag outfit of 2500 poorly trained Spanish defenders.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The city’s aldabas (door knockers) found on many doors in town, originated in medieval times. They were the ultimate status symbol; a constant reminder of your place in Cartagenian society. The size indicated your social status and wealth. Beyond the size was the symbolic meaning of the item itself. The designs corresponded to the owner’s profession. For example, the lizard represented royalty; a result of the Spanish influence, while a fish or mermaid denoted the merchant class, particularly those that sourced from the sea. And on and on until today there are many designs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salesmen and women line the streets. There are numerous ways to make a living in the city.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The India Catalina statue stands alone, high above the riverside park. It was erected to honor an indigenous girl of fourteen who was abducted by the Spanish conquistadors in 1509. She returned at age 22 with Pedro de Heredia (a Spanish big wig) to act as an interpreter. She is credited with being a peacemaker between the numerous warring tribes.

 

 

 

 

 

There is a central park (Parque del Centenario) with a rather amazing array of animals living in it. It’s not a big park, and I fear the sloths and monkeys will not be able to survive the inbreeding. 

 

Three-toed sloths make it their home. An interesting fact about sloths…for some reason they don’t defecate while in the trees. They must come down to the base. I didn’t think I’d ever see this, but lo and behold one young fellow let me watch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another charming feature of Cartagena is the ubiquitous graffiti art. I’ll pick only a few of the hundreds of good ones. Some cover entire buildings, others are tucked into more discreet niches.