Angkor Wat is deservedly a world heritage center visited by thousands from all over the world. It covers a huge area containing dozens of temples: some restored, some being restored, and some still over-grown with huge fig trees. Both its size and detail of the carvings are awesome, in the strictest sense of the word.
From the islands in Laos, plus the border crossing delay it takes an entire day and the better part of the night to get to Siem Reap, home of Angkor Wat. The bus drivers handled the paperwork at the border. After crossing into N. Cambodia the roads deteriorate further. It is even poorer than Laos.
The bus stopped for lunch at a market where the choices are not choice. Finding something appealing to a western palette is a challenge. Perhaps you like your hard boiled egg with the fetal chicken inside? Or maybe a plate of fried grasshoppers with spices? Or a plate of grubs? Or some interesting dried fish, or cockleshells?
We arrived at midnight in Siem Reap during a power outage…which is a regular occurrence apparently. The town’s size has exploded since outsiders have been allowed into Cambodia, but their infrastructure hasn’t caught up.
The delightful, attentive and punctual Mr. Dina was our driver for several days. We were charmed. He took us anywhere we wanted to go for three days, at $15 per day while we explored Angkor Wat. While a hotel desk clerk makes $75/month working 7 days a week for 15 hour night shifts in Laos, these might look like decent wages to tuk-tuk drivers in Cambodia. Mr. Dyna was ecstatic over a $20 tip. In Siem Reap the ATM’s dispense American dollars. That is the desired currency.
Iconic Angkor Wat, surrounded by a moat is the world’s largest religious building. The enormity of the entire complex surprised us.
The 630 year Angkor Wat era lasted from 802 AD to 1432 at which point, invading Siamese made off with the artists, intellectuals, dancers and fighters. Thai culture still reverberates with the infusion of talent from that invasion.
The temples surviving are but a sacred skeleton of the original Khmer Rouge empire. Wooden residential buildings are long gone. The quality of design and craftsmanship is awe inspiring.
Hinduism was the religion of choice at the inception. Later, Mahayana Buddhism became the prevalent religion. Both influences are obvious in the temples. Today, most Cambodians favor the Theravada branch of Buddhism.
Angkor Thom is a walled city encompassing 10 sq. kilometers. Troops of macaque monkeys are found on the premises doing their monkey business.
Included inside the walls is the Bayon complex with its multitude of carved faces strangely resembling the king that built it.
In between the main complex area and the outlying temples rural life goes on.
The outlying Banteay Srei is called the ladies temple, because of the delicate carvings on pink granite stone. Fewer visitors make it this far, so it’s a quieter complex.
Our 2nd stop in Cambodia was The Rainbow Lodge near Koh Kong. Featured in the travel section of the New York Times years before, it sounded so delightful it was a factor in our deciding to visit SE Asia. They have a tranquil spot on the Tatai River, with swimming off the dock, kayaks available for guests and a resident butterfly expert. We brought the Times article with us. As we checked in on March 6, 2013, we noticed the date of the newspaper…March 6, 2011. Oooweeoo.
Lots of birds, insects, and lizards. Gibbons are heard from the opposite bank. Hornbills were honking on our roof.
Time is running out so we must leave this tranquil spot and get back to Bangkok so we can rent a car and drive south to see more of Thailand. There is a link following if you want to see more of Cambodia.