First stop in Chobe Nat. Park was Savuti camp, on the west end of Chobe. In years when there’s a lot of water in an Angolan river, the Savuti channel fills, which then fills the Savuti marsh. However, it hasn’t run since 2013. It’s anyone’s guess when the marsh will fill again. For now, it’s a wide open meadow full of zebra, wildebeests and warthogs. Even a den of Yellow Mongoose, another new one for us.
Fortunately, by late December there are plenty of water holes filled by rain to keep birds and animals happy.
The most interesting thing for us was some topographical variation. Volcanic hills, and a long high ridge of sand. These dunes lie to the west of an ancient inland lake. Prevailing winds from the east piled them there hundreds of thousands of years ago.
There is even a small rock painting made by the San people (Bushmen) perhaps a thousand or more years ago. These particular drawings haven’t been dated yet, but others near Maun have. The paint is made from fat, blood and tree resin.
In the “marsh” were many carmine bee-eaters, one even riding on the back of a Kori bustard! Craig thinks this might be proof enough for his friend that thinks hummingbirds ride south on migrating geese. (ho, ho)
The waterholes were crowded with birds, antelope and elephants. There are a lot of elephants in Chobe.
One morning drive was rained out. Later, on the evening drive, a big surprise! Thousands of birds circling around and hundreds more on the ground.
Turns out, termite mounds soften with the rains and the termites that are ready to leave and form new colonies all fly at once. Clouds of termites were in the air and on the ground. These termites are over an inch long and stout. When they land, their wings immediately fall off. One landed in the truck and sure enough, the wings just fell off. Birds see others circling and come to see what the interest is….soon more and more arrive until it’s a feeding frenzy. Mongooses, jackals and bustards also love termites which are a good source of protein. Local people collect them to roast and eat, or dry and pound into a powder.
That night, nearby lions roared all night; loud enough to keep me awake. In the morning we followed tracks and found the culprits…four males, two young and two older. I forgave them instantly; they are so beautiful.
Next evening drive we found a hyena den that looked like it was possibly in use. Decided to wait awhile to see if anything happened. Didn’t have to wait long before baby hyenas started coming out either to wait for their parents or just play.
Hyenas den communally. All pack members feed the young ones. In this den there were at least three mothers with different aged pups. The mothers were out hunting.
Next stop is Ihaha camp, near Kasane, the town where our safari ends. It’s in the Chobe River valley; a huge wide, flat valley that floods from one side to the other: in some places over a mile wide! Namibia is on the other side of the river.
Here is a picture of our section of our last camp. We will miss our outdoor living, but even more, the luxury of having someone else do the cooking.
If Chobe were the first park one encountered it would be awe inspiring. However, after many weeks on the road, we were getting jaded. Oh, another giraffe, zebra, buffalo, etc. Ho, hum. However, even in the last few days we found fun birds to look at.
And the antics of the baboons are always fun to watch. Plus there was another carcass to observe.
The video this time: elephants, hyenas, and the termite extravaganza!
Click here. https://youtu.be/8p7HJuJ8J1E