Botswana Safari: Chapter 4, Okavango Delta

The delta is the most popular destination of all Botswana. It covers over 10,000 square miles, most of it not in a park. The Okavango River starts in the mountains of Angola and competes for the title of third longest river in Africa (Nile and Congo are one and two). However, instead of emptying into a large body of water, this river runs into the Kalahari and disappears into the sands. Well over 90% of Botswana’s surface water is in the delta. Before reaching the Kalahari, the river breaks up into a maze of lagoons, channels and large palm islands which attract large numbers of birds, animals and tourists.

There are scores of private (expensive) lodges in the delta that are reachable only by air or water. Few roads penetrate the delta. The Moremi Game Reserve, nearly a third of the delta on the northeast side, is the only part accessible by 4WD vehicles, and only a small portion of that.

Herds of zebra, wildebeest, red lechwe, giraffe, and impala roam the palm islands. Wildebeests like to hang around with zebras because zebras crop the grass low making predators more visible, plus zebras have better vision and can kick harder.

Heading up the Boro River channel.

During the dry season water levels are low and animals are out grazing on the large grassy plains. However, there are few channels open that are deep enough for the mokoros. Travel is more limited, and it is HOT. We were there in mid-December. We couldn’t believe some of the locals were dressed in black, some even in sweaters!

During the rainy season starting in January, the water levels start rising, but it isn’t until June and July, when snow melt from Angola reaches the delta that it floods. Then the mokoros and motor boats can go anywhere. The animals are more concentrated and visible on the remaining dry land and the weather cooler.

Wide spot in the channel gives an idea about what the palm islands look like.

Dragons everywhere in the delta.

Dragonflies flit over the channel.

Mokoros are poled boats similar to canoes. They were originally dugouts made from the local trees, especially the sausage tree. However, as the tourist industry flourished it was obvious there weren’t enough large trees to make enough boats to accommodate all the visitors, so the fiberglass mokoro was born. These new ones are much easier to lug around and for the polers to guide through the channels.

Yolanda and Alicia poling the mokoros loaded with gear.

The job of poling looks easy, but these people have been doing it since they were little children. Because there are so many crocodiles in the water, precise balance is crucial. We had two women polers, a relatively recent job title for a woman. It took 5 mokoros and 7 poler/cook/guide folks to get us and all our gear to the campsite.

Unloading all the gear.

Sausage tree fruit. Some birds and animals are able to eat the tough sausages, and there is some sort of cancer drug made from the pods. The flowers are eaten by giraffes, kudu, impala, and bushbucks. It is advisable NOT to pitch one’s tent under a sausage tree.

These campsites are first come, first served. On a couple of nights we had close neighbors who fortunately toned it down by request of our guides. The wonderful thing about not being in a park is people are allowed to walk around. We followed the usual safari drill…up early and out to see animals, but this time, hiking on the islands! Then lunch and time to do whatever… reading and trying to stay cool were our choices. We spotted these next pictures around the camp.

Evening of our first day we hiked out of our camp and spotted our first Red Lechwe…a water adapted antelope with large feet. We soon learn these live here in the thousands, the largest concentration in the world.

It even has eye spots on the back of the head to confuse predators.

Pearl-spotted Owlet, similar to our diurnal Northern Pygmy Owl.

Craig with O.T. and Partner hoisting an elephant leg bone.

O.T. and other, older guides are illiterate. Government sponsored schools came to the isolated parts of the delta much later than other villages. But they are very savvy in the ways of wildlife and the delta in general. Plus they have to pass eye tests and take classes before they can become certified guides. Partner, at least, I know is literate, although critical thinking is dubious.

Squacco Herons are everywhere, flying up in bright white clouds of noisy indignation as mokoros pass.

Guide, O.T. posing on large termite mound.

Domestic cattle frequently wander into the delta. They are not welcome back to the villages because of disease worries.

Black-collared barbet defending its nest.

Woodland Kingfishers eat insects and lizards. They don’t fish like other kingfishers.

Along the canals we find…

Black Crakes

Tiny female red-spotted reed frogs can change their colors at will.

Male red-spotted reed frog picture from the internet. We didn’t see one.

Here’s a female on canvas.

People use the grass gathering chores as a social occasion. Gathering grass for various projects like roof thatching, basket and mat weaving, etc. is allowed until the end of December. Then not again until next season.

Malachite Kingfishers wait on reeds until a small fish swims by. Then they dive.

Water lilies, white and blue, line the canals.

Lovely vistas with promise of rain.

The morning island hikes were a delight, if only because we weren’t sitting.

Giraffes are out eating.

African Openbill Storks line every waterhole.

Pygmy geese are really very pretty ducks.

The delta has its baobabs also. Fruit is eaten by animals and humans, the bark is shredded for rope, and elephants use them as scratching posts. One large baobab arises from multiple seeds. They grow together to form one massive trunk. Baobabs live for many hundreds of years.

Grey hornbill.

Abdim’s stork.

Herds of zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, and red lechwe, roam the island grasslands.

Around 4pm each day we head out in the mokoro for a sunset cruise. A delightful way to end the day. First evening we had to turn around as some elephants were too close to pole by.